Mouery's Flooring

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DIY Luxury Vinyl Installation

Rick Mouery

In honor of our largest luxury vinyl sale of the year we wanted to share with you a complete do it yourself luxury vinyl installation guide!

Luxury Vinyl… It’s not what you think!

This is NOT your grandma’s vinyl..modern luxury vinyl is arguably the most well-rounded floor. It is kid-proof, pet-proof, water-proof, and some even say life-proof! It can be installed anywhere from your living room to the airport, and is one of the easiest floors to install without a professional. Its resemblance to natural wood and stone products offer a worry-free solution to traditional hardwood and tile floors.

WPC and SPC are the two most well-known compositions of luxury vinyl. They are both extremely durable and the only difference between the two is their core.

  • WPC luxury vinyl has a wood pulp and plastic composite with foaming agents, making it slightly softer under foot compared to SPC

  • SPC luxury vinyl is made of a stone and plastic composite

  • Neither is likely to dent, but SPC luxury vinyl is less likely to dent than WPC

  • WPC luxury vinyl sounds slightly denser under foot

  • Our premium hard surface underlayment, WhisperStep, can be added under any luxury vinyl product in order to give it a more solid sound under floor and eliminate any hollow sound. Learn more about WhisperStep here.

PROTIP: Not all luxury vinyl products are created equal. we focus on products with at least a 20 mil wear layer, and a strong locking system. A high quality luxury vinyl is the key to having a long-lasting durable floor.

DIY Luxury Vinyl Installation Instructions

Supplies

Before you begin

  • Do not install cabinets or fixed objects on top of the floor

  • All sub-floors must be clean, flat (smooth), and dry prior to installation

  • High or low areas exceeding 3/16” in a 10’ radius must be corrected

  • Leave a 1/4” (6mm) expansion gap around the entire perimeter of the installation and any transitions to adjacent flooring materials.

1. Measure

Begin by measuring the width of the room and divide the total width of the room by the width of the plank. Adjust the first-row width so that you finish with at least a half a width of a plank on the far wall.

2. Mark

Set up a starting line for the first row by measuring the width of the (adjusted) plank. Add 1/4” to this number and mark the floor at each end of your starting wall, approximately 6” away from the corners.

3. Chalk

Using a chalk-line, carefully snap a line between these 2 points. Check to make sure there will be approximately 1/4” between the edge of your first row of planks and the wall. This is covered by the baseboards and/or quarter round.

4. First Row

Lay the first row of the planks, the short tongue should be facing the wall.  First row should start ¼” (6mm) from the wall.  Cut the last plank to finish ¼” (6mm) from opposite wall.  We recommend that you use temporary spacers to keep the floors away from the walls, as the floor will shift during installation due to it being a floating floor.  Place spacers every 2-3’ along the starting wall, plus at the end of each of the starting rows so panels do not shift when set into place.

5. End Joints

Assemble the end joints by inserting the tongue on the short side of the plank at an angle of approximately 25 degrees, and lower it into place.  Continue in this manner until the first row is complete.

6. Second Row

To start the second row, use the remainder of the last plank of the first row if it is longer than 12” long, otherwise, cut a new plank in half and proceed.  To ensure structural integrity of your floor, it is mandatory to ALWAYS STAGGER THE END JOINTS FROM ROW TO ROW BY AT LEAST 8” (20cm).

7. Add Planks

Install one plank at a time, so that the end with the large lip is exposed to receive the next plank.  Using a tapping block gently tap on the block until the ends of the planks lock together and repeat for rest of row.  Do NOT use too much force when tapping the planks together, as this may damage the locking profile.  For final piece in row, use a pry-bar to pull it tight and lock the end profiles.  Do NOT strike directly on the locking profile to tap the pieces together, as this may damage the locking profile.

8. Finish Seams

In the case where you are unable to angle the planks (i.e. under a doorframe or radiator), you can cut away the locking edge of the lip of the bottom groove by using a utility knife.  Run a bead of Seam Sealer on the now modified tongue and groove.  Tighten the planks gently with the use of a pull bar and a rubber mallet

9. Door Frames

If a doorframe must be undercut, lay a piece of flooring next to the doorframe with the patterned side facing down.  Undercut the doorjamb with a saw, then slide the plank under the doorjamb with decorative pattern facing upwards.  Please note that the floor must be allowed to expand under the doorjamb and recommended expansion gap must be repeated. 

10. Finishing Up

Ensure there is a minimum ¼” (6mm) gap around the entire floor perimeter and any obstacles.  Measure and cut the last panels to fit so that there is a minimum ¼” (6mm) gap along the wall.

Need it Installed?!

If you’re not a DIY-er, we’ve got you covered! We have some of the greatest flooring installers in Springfield happy to provide quality installation on ANY product you find in our showroom! Get started with a FREE quote today!

Final Thoughts

To see these products in person, check out samples, or find out more information visit our showroom located at 2516 W Battlefield Rd in Springfield, email us at flooring417@gmail.com, or give us a call at (417) 883-4720. Any of our commission-free team members are ready to help you find your dream floors!

*Terms & conditions apply on flooring installation. See store for details.